DAVE’S BECKETT SKIMMER

 

Materials for Beckett chamber:

 

BECKETT CHAMBER CONSTRUCTION

 

Beckett 1408 foam jet nozzle

1-1/4”X1-1/4”X1” slip tee

2 each 1-1/4”X1” slip bushings

1”slipX3/4”FPT ell

2 each 1”slipX3/4”FPT reducer

3 each Ύ” MPT nipples

Ύ” FPT gate valve

Ύ”MPT X Ύ” barb adapter

2 fitting to fitting length pieces of 1” PVC

Teflon tape

PVC glue and primer

 

The chamber is a 1-1/4x1-1/4x1"T", and two 1-1/4"x1" bushings. The Beckett is glued and compressed between the two bushings inside the "T", and the appropriate adapters added.

Remove the Beckett from its package. Pull the slip ring off the output side of the head (The ring is to the right). Discard the ring.

The Beckett will not fit through through the 1" part of the bushings, but will slide through the 1-1/4 part of the "T". Fit one of the bushings into the "T", then the Beckett, then the other bushing. Note the orientation and disassemble. This is how it glues together.

Notice the input side bushing sits on the first fin of the Beckett's frame. Slop a good bit of all purpose glue around this ring, and apply the bushing to the Beckett. Press, hold hard, and wait 30 seconds for the glue to set. Keep the Beckett true to center.

With the Beckett side down, carefully pour some all purpose glue into the space between the Beckett's input and the bushing. Don't fill the space, just enough to coat the bottom. Then coat the remaining inside of the bushing and insert 1 of the fitting-to-fitting length tubes. Don't push so hard as to break the Beckett off the bushing, it is sealed, it is not strong.

Don't get glue into the Beckett.

Glue the Beckett/bushing unit into the "T". Push in the full depth of the fitting. This will set the Beckett's air input holes at the right level within the "T".

Notice that the other bushing won't fit all the way into the "T". The fitting should be cut in half. At least 1/2 of the fitting should be able to find a resting place within the "T".

Glue the other fitting-to-fitting tube into the fitting. Since the fitting was cut, there will be no stop. Slide the pipe in only so far as the end of the fitting.

Apply some glue to the base of the fitting (slow curing epoxy works good for this).  Glue the tube/bushing into the "T". The output of the Beckett must be clamped together within the 1" tube. Push the fitting in firmly, the vise force on the Beckett will keep the unit sound.

Allow the unit to dry for a few hours.  Next, glue the 1”X3/4”FPT reducer to the side of the tee without the reducers.  After applying Teflon tape to the nipple, screw it into the reducer finger tight.  Then screw the gate valve onto the other end.  The gate valve allows you to regulate the air intake into the skimmer.

Glue the 1”X3/4”FPT ell to the input side of the Beckett assembly.  Orient the ell input in the direction of the pump input.  Apply Teflon tape, and screw the Ύ”MPT X Ύ” barb fitting to the ell.

Glue the 1”slipX3/4”FPT reducer to the output side of the Beckett.  Apply Teflon tape to the Ύ” nipple, and screw into the reducer.

The Beckett chamber is now done!

            SKIMMER BODY CONSTRUCTION

 

Materials for skimmer body construction:

 

3 each 7 ½” X 7 ½” X 3/16” acrylic with 3 ½” diameter hole in middle

2 each 7 ½” X 7 ½” X 3/16” acrylic

2 each 7 ½” X 10” X 3/16” acrylic

2 each 7 ½” X 8” X 3/16” acrylic

3 each 9 5/8” X 8” X 3/16” acrylic

6 ½” OD X 6” ID acrylic, cut to 10” and 4” lengths

3 ½” OD X 3” ID acrylic, cut to 8” length

Spears 1” gate valve, PVC

Ύ” PVC ball valve, FPT X FPT, optional

2 each Ύ” nipples

2 each Ύ” FPT X Ύ” slip ell

2 each 1” X 1” slip ell

3” ID X 4” OD rubber gasket

 

In one of the 9 5/8” X 8” acrylic pieces, drill a 15/16” hole 1” from the right-hand edge and a 1 Ό” hole 4.32” from the edge, as shown in the figure.  Tap the 15/16” hole with a Ύ” NPT tap (I can loan you one).  Install one of the nipples in the tapped hole.  Install a short section of 1” PVC in the other hole with a slip ell located on the “inside” of the sump.  Epoxy with a submergible epoxy.

 

Install the short drain tubes “inside” the sump, about 1” from the bottom of the 9 5/8” X 8” piece.  Cement in place.  Cut a 6” diameter hole in one of the 7 ½” X 10” acrylic pieces as shown in the top view above (3 ½” from the left edge along the long dimension, centered in the short dimension).  The hole need not be a clean cut, a router can be used.  Drill a 15/16” hole in this piece (1” from the top right-hand corner as shown), and tap Ύ” NPT.

 

Cement the sides of the sump box to the base 7 ½” X 10” acrylic.  Start with the piece that has the drain tubes, then the sides, and finally the other 9 5/8” X 8” piece.  Cut the corner out of the remaining 9 5/8” X 8” piece, approximately 2” from the corner at a 45 degree angle.  This will be the “baffle” (not shown in the figure), and is glued near the interior drain tubes to prevent bubbles from flowing out of the drain.  Cement the piece with the 6” diameter hole on top.  It is not necessary that a good joint is made along the baffle piece, only around the perimeter.  If all cuts are accurate and square, the “top” of the sump should fit flush with the rest of the assembly.

 

If a collection cup drain is desired, drill and/or tap the hole for the drain before the next assembly step.  Slide one of the 7 ½” square pieces (with the drain hole) with the holes over the 3 ½” diameter tube until 2 ½” of the tube extend above the square piece.  Check squareness with a level.  Cement in place.  Center the short 6 ½” diameter tube on top of the 7 ½” square piece, and cement in place.  This is the collection cup.  If an airtight cup is desired, cut a 6” diameter hole in one of the 7 ½” square pieces and cement to the top of the 6 ½” diameter short piece.  Drill and tap 10-32 holes in the corners of the top piece, and place another 7 ½” square piece on top with clearance holes for the screws.  Sandwich a rubber gasket between the two.

 

Slide the end of the 3 ½” tube over the other 7 ½” square piece until flush with the tube.  Cement in place.  Place the final 7 ½” square piece with 3 ½” hole on top of the long section of 6 ½” diameter tube and center.  Glue this piece in place.  Now place the collection cup/riser assembly on top of the large reaction chamber assembly and clamp.  Drill holes in corners for mounting hardware, and tap the flat piece on the reaction chamber.  Sandwich the rubber gasket between the two, and install hardware.

 

Finally, glue the collection cup/riser/reaction chamber assembly to the sump assembly.  The skimmer body is now complete.

 

 

 

 

 

FINAL ASSEMBLY

 

Remove the gate valve from the Beckett chamber.  Apply Teflon tape, and the output of the unit will now screw into the tapped hole on the top of the sump of the skimmer body.  Reinstall the gate valve for air control.

 

Screw the ball valve onto the Ύ” nipple on the sump with Teflon tape.  Install another Ύ” nipple to the ball valve, and finally the Ύ” FPT X Ύ” slip ell to the other end of the ball valve.

 

Cement the 1” slip ell onto one end of the Spears gate valve.  Cement the other end to the protruding 1” PVC pipe on the sump, with the ell oriented down.

 

Connect a suitable pump (1200 gph is recommended) to the Beckett chamber Ύ” barb input.  Close the air gate valve, and open all other valves.  Turn the pump on to establish flow.  Open the air gate valve until desired bubble size is achieved.  Too far open, and the bubbles will be too large.  The Beckett chamber does not require a lot of air flow, but this will require some “tweaking”.  Now, begin to close the drain gate valve until the air/water interface is about ½” from the transition between the reaction chamber and the riser.  Too low, and large bubbles will get trapped and disrupt the laminar flow.  Too high and foam level will be hard to control.  Allow several hours for the unit to stabilize and “break in”.

 

Contents may not be reproduced without written consent from author, David Anderson (commiphora@bellsouth.net).